The Island That Salt Built
Land of Salt
Long before Columbus named it Saint Martin, the Arawak people called this island Soualiga — the land of salt. For three centuries, its crystalline ponds shaped empires, built a city, and sustained generations on their backs. This is that story.
"Salt was the original attraction of Sint Maarten for the Dutch — the island's salt ponds are indicated on one of the earliest maps of the island, dated 1630."
— Dr. Jay Haviser, Sint Maarten Archaeological Center (SIMARC)
The Story Unfolds
Arawak people, migrating northward from South America's Orinoco basin, settled on an island ringed with natural salt-water lagoons. They named it Soualiga — "land of salt" — a name that speaks to the mineral's centrality in their lives long before European contact.
The earliest inhabitants, possibly the Ciboney, had arrived as far back as 3,500 years ago. By the 14th century, the more warlike Carib people also claimed presence on the island. Yet it was the salt ponds — shimmering basins left by evaporating seawater — that gave the island its enduring identity.
Salt preserved food, enabled long fishing voyages, and held spiritual significance. The Great Salt Pond on the southern coast and smaller ponds at Grand Case and Orient Bay were natural saltpans — gifts of geography and climate.
Before the Dutch arrived with their fort and company flag, French settlers quietly established themselves on the island's northern coast — particularly around what became known as Quartier d'Orléans (French Quarter) and the bay at Grand Case.
France sought to colonize islands between Trinidad and Bermuda as part of a broader Caribbean strategy. St. Martin's northern salt ponds — including those near Grand Case and Orient Bay — offered a ready-made resource for preserving food on transatlantic voyages.
The French settlement was smaller and less fortified than the Dutch occupation to come, but it established an enduring claim to the island's north that would survive Spanish occupation and be formalized in the 1648 Treaty of Concordia.
In 1627, Dutch spies reported on the strategic salt deposits of the Great Salt Pond. Four years later, the Dutch West India Company formally established a settlement on the southern coast, erecting Fort Amsterdam at the narrow entrance between Great Bay and the salt ponds.
Jan Claeszen Van Campen became the island's first Dutch governor. The Dutch need for salt was existential: having broken from Spain in the 16th century, they had lost access to Portugal's Atlantic salt deposits. St. Martin's Great Salt Pond — and its location as a halfway point between New Amsterdam (New York) and Brazil — made it invaluable.
The Dutch West India Company immediately began organized salt-mining operations. Workers harvested crystallized salt from the naturally evaporating pond, packed it in barrels, and shipped it to Europe and the Americas for preserving fish, meat, and provisions for long sea voyages.
As the Eighty Years' War raged between Spain and the Dutch Republic, Spain could no longer tolerate a Dutch salt operation flourishing in the Caribbean. In 1633, Spanish forces under the Marquis of Cadereyta landed approximately 1,000 soldiers on St. Martin, overwhelming Fort Amsterdam's small garrison and driving out both Dutch and French settlers.
The Spanish built Old Spanish Fort at Point Blanche to reinforce their control. In 1644, the Dutch struck back — Admiral Peter Stuyvesant led an assault on the fortified island, but failed, losing his right leg to a Spanish cannonball at Cay Bay. Stuyvesant would later gain fame as the last Director-General of New Amsterdam (modern New York).
By 1647-1648, Spain had more pressing concerns elsewhere in its empire. The Eighty Years' War had ended. The island barely turned a profit for the Crown. The Spanish simply evacuated, leaving the island open once more for French and Dutch settlement.
With the Spanish gone, both the Dutch (returning from St. Eustatius) and the French (returning from St. Kitts) raced to reoccupy the island. Rather than fight, they negotiated. The resulting Treaty of Concordia — signed on March 23, 1648 — is one of history's most enduring diplomatic agreements, still in force today.
The treaty's fifth article explicitly addressed the salt ponds: "the chase, the fisheries, the salt pans, the rivers, the lakes, the fresh waters, dye-wood, mines and minerals, harbours and roadsteads, and other commodities of the said island shall be common, and shall serve to provide the wants of the inhabitants."
The Dutch kept the southern portion — including the Great Salt Pond — while the French held the northern coast facing Anguilla. Salt would be shared between both peoples, a uniquely cooperative arrangement in a Caribbean defined by conflict.
"The salt pans… shall be common, and shall serve to provide the wants of the inhabitants."
Treaty of Concordia, Article 5 — March 23, 1648
For nearly a century after the Treaty of Concordia, salt production continued at modest scale. Then, in 1733, Commander John Philips — a Scottish-born officer serving the Dutch — transformed the industry entirely.
Philips founded the settlement of Philipsburg on the narrow sandbar strip between Great Bay and the Great Salt Pond — a location chosen precisely for its proximity to the salt works and the deep-water harbor that could load salt ships. The settlement was formally named after him when he served as governor from 1735 to 1746.
His reforms were decisive: he quadrupled the number of salt mills from one to four. He revitalized the salt industry, brought in new settlers, convinced plantation owners to shift from subsistence to export economy, and successfully lobbied for St. Martin to become self-governing — removed from the administration of St. Eustatius.
He also oversaw a petition for windmills to be used in the salt pans (signed May 7, 1735) — an engineering advance that dramatically increased production capacity.
The true architects of St. Martin's salt wealth were the enslaved people of African descent who did the work. Called salt pickers, they labored in conditions of extraordinary hardship — bent over crystalline pans under the full Caribbean sun, their skin burning in salt-saturated water, their wounds made more painful by the very commodity they harvested.
There were no wages. The work ran from March to November — the dry season — when evaporation was fastest. Salt workers divided the ponds into sections, flooded them from the sea, then raked the crystallized salt into piles for collection and barreling.
In 1790, the Long Wall (now Long Wall Road) was built specifically to divert freshwater from Cul-de-Sac valley away from the salt pans — an engineering intervention that acknowledged the salt pond's vulnerability to dilution.
The French abolished slavery in 1848. Enslaved people on the Dutch side immediately threatened to cross to the French side. Facing a labor crisis, local Dutch authorities emancipated their own enslaved population in the same year — though the Dutch empire didn't formally abolish slavery until 1863.
By 1850, St. Martin's salt industry had reached its extraordinary apex. The Great Salt Pond produced over 337,000 barrels of salt per year, and a third of the island's entire population was employed in the industry. Sint Maarten salt was shipped to Boston, Brussels, and Brazil — famous across the Atlantic world.
The industry by this point was a sophisticated operation spanning the entire eastern side of the Great Salt Pond. Dry-pile stone walls — some still visible today — formed geometric holding pans where saltwater was evaporated in stages. A Dutch-style wind-pump (built in the 19th century) removed excess freshwater from the pans to maintain salt concentration.
In 1852, the Rolandus Canal was constructed for drainage. In 1862, a Foga steam-powered pumping station was opened — industrial technology applied to an ancient craft. The Great Salt Pond saltpans had become a small industrial complex by the mid-19th century.
A French colonial decree of February 11, 1850 explicitly codified the Treaty of Concordia's salt-sharing provisions, confirming that French side residents could harvest and export salt from the Dutch side under treaty rights.
The decline of the salt industry was gradual but irreversible. After its 1850 peak, prices for the once-precious mineral began to fall as new production methods and larger salt-producing regions undercut Caribbean output. After the 1920s, the industry endured steady decline.
Salt production on the Dutch side of St. Maarten finally ceased in 1949. French-side operations, including at a marina location near Philipsburg, continued into the 1960s — and a Dutch company continued harvesting on the French side until the early 1980s.
In 1939, St. Martin was declared a duty-free port — the first step toward the tourism economy that would replace salt as the island's primary industry. The Dutch began developing tourism in the 1950s; the French followed in the 1970s.
Today, the dry-pile stone walls of the Great Salt Pond saltpans survive as an archaeological monument, designated to the St. Maarten Monuments List in 2008. When water levels fall in winter and spring, the 17th-century rock walls emerge from the water — walls built by enslaved hands, still standing.
Geography of Salt
Salt defined where people settled, where cities were built, and how the island was divided. The island's main salt ponds were not incidental geography — they were the reason European nations went to war over a 37-square-mile island.
Click any pond on the map to learn more about its role in Saint Martin's salt history. The island's geography was shaped by these natural saltwater basins that attracted settlement, powered economies, and defined the division between Dutch and French territories.
The Great Salt Pond on the Dutch southern coast is the reason St. Martin was settled. Its dry-pile stone walls (17th century), Dutch wind-pump (19th century), and Foga steam facility (1862) made it the industrial heart of Caribbean salt production. At peak production around 1850, it yielded over 337,000 barrels per year.
On the French northern coast, the Grand Case salt pond was the primary French-side salt production site. French settlers who arrived in 1629 established operations here, harvesting salt for preservation and export. The French territory's salt was protected under the Treaty of Concordia's shared-resources clause.
On the northeastern coast, Orient Bay's salt ponds (known in French as Étang des Salines — "saltwater pond") formed another French-side production site. The northeast coast's consistent trade winds made it ideal for solar salt evaporation. Today Orient Bay is best known as a beach destination, but its name preserves the memory of its salt heritage.
Oyster Pond sits on the border between Dutch and French territories. Its name reflects the bivalve shellfish historically harvested from its brackish waters rather than salt production per se, but like all the island's lagoons, it formed part of the intricate coastal geography that made St. Martin uniquely attractive to early European salt merchants.
What Remains
A monument in Philipsburg honors the enslaved and post-emancipation workers — the salt pickers — whose labor built St. Martin's white gold economy for over two centuries.
The 17th-century dry-pile stone walls of the Great Salt Pond saltpans emerge from the water every winter. These walls, built by enslaved hands, are among the Caribbean's oldest surviving industrial structures.
The Sint Maarten Heritage Museum in Philipsburg preserves artifacts, photographs, and documents from the salt era — including records of the Great Salt Pond's industrial operations and the lives of those who worked it.
The Great Salt Pond, no longer used for salt production, is now designated an Important Bird Area. Black-necked Stilts nest on the 17th-century rock walls, and migrating shorebirds feed where enslaved workers once raked salt crystals.
The 1852 Rolandus Canal, built for drainage of the salt pans, still runs through Philipsburg near the boardwalk. A scenic bridge over it near Azianas marks the last visible infrastructure of the salt-industrial complex.
"Soualiga" — the Arawak name for the island, meaning "land of salt" — endures as the name of Philipsburg's pier, a local radio station, and in cultural memory across the dual-nation island. The salt ponds gave Saint Martin its first name. They still define it.
Principal archaeological research by Dr. Jay Haviser, Director of the Sint Maarten Archaeological Center (SIMARC). Historical sources include the History of Saint Martin, the Caribbean Birding Trail, and Visit St. Maarten.